OK, MNT Reform Standalone Keyboard (USB) in 7 psychedelic colors:
Just realised - this is actually my first USB-C thing!
A friend of mine from university has started selling Bluetooth speaker kits! I thought I'd give one a try, and it was a fun little build! It's a little larger than I thought it was from the pictures on his site.
There were a couple of fit issues that tend to come with 3D printed parts, but nothing that couldn't be solved with some side cutters.
I'm giving it some initial testing and so far it sounds as good as other Bluetooth speakers I've used. Not an expert on audio quality though!
Somehow the microcontroller worked first time! I got an LED blinking, so I populated the rest of the PCB, except for the non-essential stuff. Further testing will have to wait until tomorrow.
Doing the fine pitch stuff made me really wish I had a hot air soldering station. It's definitely on my wish list for next time.
Just noticed the first mistake in the PCB - the VDD pin on the ICSP header is labelled as a second reset. That's why I get for copying and pasting.
It took 1.5 hours but I finally have the difficult bits soldered on! USB port, and the TQFP and TSSOP packages.
I think I'll add the bare minimum for the microcontroller and then try plugging it in.
The penny actually makes them look kinda big
Yay the pointing stick PCBs arrived! They're pretty small, but I think I can go even smaller once I remove the debug stuff.
Eagerly awaiting delivery of my pointing stick PCBs. They happen to be arriving on my day off, but unfortunately it looks like it's gonna be towards the end of the day. All DHL will tell me is they'll be delivered "by end of day"
So the next resin I try will be something that's 1:1 or 2:1 so that I can accurately measure both amounts.
My 3D printed mixing stick worked pretty well though!
The first casting of polyester resin is still liquidy, despite using too much catalyst. It's a shame but I'll just leave it in the mould and see what happens over time.
The second casting I tried was into a keycap mould I bought. I actually used the right amount of hardener this time and it seems pretty solid!
The problem I ran into is that the amount of resin I need to mix (~25g) requires so little hardener (~0.5g) that it's hard to get right, because you can't put in less than a drop.
Looks like the open source trackball world is starting to get some alternatives to the Ploopy!
I wanted to try casting clear resin, so I bought some moulding silicone and some clear polyethylene resin! The mould of these coins turned out pretty nice - I don't think there were any bubbles on the surface.
I put way too much catalyst in the resin so we'll see how well it cures. Apparently it's likely to crack so I'm not very hopeful. But it's only a first attempt, and I'm expecting to fail a lot!
The polyester is stinky stuff.
Aaand that's a PCB. I would check it more buuuut... yolo
Maybe on the next version I'll make sure the connectors are actually on a sensible 0.1" grid. Oh and less of a routing clusterfuck.
Successfully making more of a mess. This is what happens when you don't plan anything, just make it up as you go along.
So far the layout is just a mess but I've kinda grouped stuff to get an idea of the size needed.
I'm going for TSSOP packages, which are smaller and more of a challenge to solder than I'm used to, so that will be fun.
Schematics for the pointing stick are coming along! It still needs some tidying up but I think this is enough to get it working.
With this I can make a ~40x40mm board that can be used over USB as a trackpoint, or over i2c with a keyboard, or just output raw analog voltages.
If this works, the version after this could use the PCB itself as the beam the strain gauges are mounted to!
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