I finally fixed the issue of bad wifi reception in my bedroom, by attaching router to a wall a lot higher than it used to be.
Instead of directly attaching to the screws in a wall, I designed this bracket.
Everything seems to work so far.
I've been doing some 3D modeling, designing another spotlight.
Here are the few things I learned for this project:
- When modeling shells use all of the existing parts (vitamins) to see how parts fit together. This saves a lot of filament.
- Create rough models for parts I don't have, to see how they would fit
- (more specific to openscad) Use 2d shapes and extrude them
- 2d polygons are flexible, but time consuming to design. It's ok to get started by combining squares and circles
I’m building another LED light from stuff I have lying around. I’m reusing heat sink from an old server.
I tapped the screws for the COB. I ended up breaking a tap, but it was at the very last hole, so i was able to finish this part of the project.
This is 50W light so it will need some active cooling. I ran it like this for a bit and the heatsink reached 55C
I made a customizable test bed leveling patter based on prusa research 3x3
The trackball still is a bit temperamental when I toggle power switch (left of the battery) between different modes.
Maybe the real problem lies with this switch, but the trackball works reliably enough for now.
Scroll wheel and low/high sampling selector are connected with 3-pin and 2-ping jst connectors.
After unplugging everything, inserting the battery and setting power switch into 'L' mode. A read LED in the middle of the board blinks 5 times indicating the trackball is working
Grimy circuit board.
Grimy circuit board might be the culprit.
So my Elecom EX6 stopped working again.
Replacing AA battery didn't help.
I even found a battery that was giving 1.6V, it didn't work.
dmesg shows the usb dongle but moving the ball or clicking any of the buttons does nothing. Time to open up the trackball.
For some reason Elecom has decided to use Torx and JIS screws. One of the screws is hidden under the label
I got my bear upgrade/ BTT SKR turbo / prusa clone running Marlin 188.8.131.52 with mesh bed leveling to the point when I deem it to be good enough.
Here the calibration pattern:
UBL 12x10 mesh on the right / No bed leveling on
I can tune the pattern to get better results, but looking at the mesh points there appear to be a slight skew going from right to left and I would like to fix that first via Bed Skew Compensation in marlin.
My fan hood printed in PETG in rough settings has melted. Here’s good at the top printed in finer settings in ABS in comparison.
The prints would get really weird artifacts — which is melted hood dragging over a print in some corners.
I bought I micrometer so now I can finally set up my 3d printer just the way I like it.
I learned a lot of things about measuring, tolerances and alignment from bear upgrade guide, and even if you're not using the kit, it's worthwhile reading section on measurement and calibration.
I'm trying different extruder setups on my ancient 3d printer, so I created an X axis endstop extender for Prusa MK2 endstop, because it was easier to make one from scratch that find it exactly what I wanted.
I made it in #openscad from the code from prusa printer, made a copy and verified it works.
I have two extenders for 15mm and 25mm but it could be modified to be anything.
I'm moving my account from https://mastodon.xyz/@avolkov
I’m still adding stuff back to my account on this instance. Here’s my old Prusa clone that I’m moving to bear upgrade frame, switching to 24V and swapping ramps with SKR.
I'm a python programmer I like to run, mess with 3D printers and openscad, sometimes I even make videos out of that.
This Mastodon instance is for people interested in technology. Discussions aren't limited to technology, because tech folks shouldn't be limited to technology either!